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How to Paint Orruk Warclans

Green hide, rusted plate and swamp-green poison

Prices in $ for the US

Army Painter Warpaints Fanatic Mega Paint Set$215.99

Before you commit

Painting ratings are our judgement, with the reasoning on the comparison page; prices are live and dated.

Paint sets that cover this scheme

All paint sets

One box of paints instead of 11 pots. Each card says how many of this scheme's colours it holds.

Or cover 64% of this scheme with 2 paint sets, $230.98 together: Army Painter Warpaints Fanatic Mega Paint Set + AK Interactive Quick Gen Set - Purple Soldiers (AK17523)

General starter boxes

All boxes

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Recommended recipe

1

Base coat

Lay the foundation colour down over primer, slightly darker than the final tone.

Suggested
2

Shade

Wash the recesses to add depth and separate the details.

Suggested
3

Layer

Rebuild the main colour on the raised areas, leaving the shade in the cracks.

Suggested
4

Highlight

Pick out the upper edges and surfaces that catch the light.

Suggested
5

Edge highlight

Sharpen only the sharpest edges for a crisp, finished look.

Suggested

Details & accent colours

Everything else on the model - metals, skin, leather, lenses, basing and this faction's signature accents.

Metal — trim

Aquilas, rims and ornament. Basecoat gold, wash with a brown shade, then edge a brighter gold.

Suggested

Metal — weapons

Bolters, blades and casings. Dark gunmetal, washed black, edged with bright steel.

Suggested

Leather & pouches

Straps, holsters and bare wood. Mid brown, shaded, then drybrushed a lighter tan.

Suggested

Skin & flesh

Faces and hands. Basecoat, a flesh wash into the recesses, then build the highlights back up.

Suggested

Eyes & lenses

Lenses, eyes and energy. A bright spot colour that pops against the armour - dot it on and add a white glint.

Suggested

Basing — earth

Groundwork. Earth basecoat, drybrushed bone, finished with your choice of grass, sand or snow.

Suggested

Your paints

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11 paints in this scheme

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11 paints
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Loren Forest

Citadel (Warhammer Paints) · Layer 99189951325

#4C6C29
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Green Ghost Dip

Green Stuff World · Dipping Inks

#1D5113Shade
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Scorpy Green

Vallejo · Game Color 72.032

#417A33Base
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Jungle Green

Army Painter · Warpaints

#779F37
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Orruk Flesh

Citadel (Warhammer Paints) · Base 99189950319

#93C27A
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Bright Gold

Army Painter · Warpaints

#B48024Metallic
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John Blanche Masterclass: Heavy Metal

Army Painter · Warpaints Fanatic

#3E3E3EMetallic
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Beasty Brown

Vallejo · Game Color 72.043

#55371BBase
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Bestigor Flesh

Citadel (Warhammer Paints) · Layer 99189951243

#C78855
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Warlock Magenta

Army Painter · Warpaints Fanatic WP3135P

#834D9FMatte
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English Uniform

Vallejo · Model Color 70.921

#6F532BMatte
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Every Orruk Warclans kit and box, priced

Prices compared across the shops that stock them — boxes ranked by cost per model.

Orruk Warclans is two armies sharing a colour. Ironjawz are enormous, armoured and few, wearing slabs of scavenged iron. Kruleboyz are lean, hooded and numerous, working with poison and mud. Both are green, both are filthy, and both are forgiving to paint - orruks are supposed to look battered, so the sins that ruin a Stormcast are features here.

The signature look

Green hide, from the deep bottle-green of an Ironjaw brute to the sicklier swamp tone of a Kruleboy. Rusted, dented iron rather than clean armour. Leather, rope and hide in warm browns. And one hot accent per clan - yellow plates for Ironjawz, poison green for Kruleboyz.

Ironjawz: skin and plate

  1. Basecoat the hide Waaagh! Flesh.
  2. Wash with Biel-Tan Green to deepen the recesses.
  3. Layer Warboss Green across the muscle mass - shoulders, arms, jaw.
  4. Highlight with Skarsnik Green on the brow, knuckles and the ridge of the back.

Ork Flesh contrast over Wraithbone compresses that to a single coat and holds up perfectly well on a rank-and-file Ardboy. Save the four-step version for the Megaboss and the Maw-Krusha.

The armour is the fun part. Basecoat Leadbelcher, wash Nuln Oil, then stipple Typhus Corrosion across the lower plates and dab Ryza Rust into it with a torn piece of sponge. Where you want the yellow, lay Ironjawz Yellow contrast straight over Zandri Dust - it shades and bases in one pass and looks appropriately grubby. Leather goes Rhinox Hide into Skrag Brown; teeth and tusks take Zandri Dust, Seraphim Sepia and Ushabti Bone.

Kruleboyz: swamp hide and poison

Kruleboyz want a colder, more diseased green. Gutrippa Flesh contrast over Wraithbone is made for exactly this and is the right answer for a unit of ten; highlight the ridges with Ogryn Camo if you want more definition. Hoods and cloth go Steel Legion Drab or Militarum Green contrast, and leather takes Snakebite Leather.

Their blades carry the signature effect. Paint the metal Leadbelcher and Nuln Oil, then work the poison along the cutting edge: Caliban Green at the base, Warpstone Glow over it, Moot Green on the last third, and a fine line of Ulthuan Grey at the very edge. A gloss coat of Waystone Green over the finished blade makes it look wet, which is the whole idea.

Speed and scale

Ironjawz are one of the fastest complete armies in Age of Sigmar. The model count is low, the plates are enormous, and rust and grime are meant to be uneven - there is no edge highlighting to agonise over. Kruleboyz take longer simply because there are more of them, but they are the ideal contrast-paint army: hooded, recessed, organic sculpts where one coat does the shading. Batch ten at a time, do all the skin, then all the cloth, then all the metal, and only detail the blades at the end.

Tips and common mistakes

  • Two greens, not one. Keeping Ironjawz warm and Kruleboyz sickly is what stops a combined force looking flat.
  • Rust with a sponge. A brush makes patterns; a torn sponge makes corrosion.
  • Let the yellow be dirty. Clean yellow plate looks wrong on an orruk.
  • Glow the blade, not the boy. The poison is the accent - keep it on the edges.

Compare an Ironjawz green against a Kruleboyz one in the scheme generator before you commit the clan.

Recipes are generated by perceptual colour matching against our cross-brand paint database. Use them as a strong starting point and test paints in person when precision matters.